Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children do not want to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these narratives and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
